Odd arrow angle

[statedriller]

I don't really have a way to paper tune my longbow, but the arrows are impacting the target (block) with a hard right slant. I can't see anything obvious when they are in flight. What could be the culprit. I tried adjusting the Brace from 6.5" to 7.5". Seemed to make the problem worse with the higher brace. It is my 50# Heritage longbow and the arrows are full length 2117's with 100 gr inserts and 125 grain heads. I know squat about tuning these sticks. What's my malfunction?
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[bowhunter843]

could it be string torque from rolling off the fingers or limb twist?
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Jake
28" SWITCHBACK XT @ 64lbs for broadhead tune with a 15%FOC.
Sword sight.
Downforce
808 slings
Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

[thunderchicken21]

I haven't got a clue Larry

Just thought I'd throw my worth in...
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[vtmtnman]

Assuming your hard right slant means nock is to the left and point is to the right,it would appear you're under spined.

Are they flying this way to the target?Try shooting in front of a white bag target,you'll see the flight much better.If you strip one down and shoot it bare shaft from say 10-15 yards,you'll be able to easily see what the arrow is doing.It won't take you but one shot to see what the arrow is doing.Nock left being underspined and nock right being overspined.

Don't waste your time with paper tuning.Way to many variables there.

I say try a 100gr or 75gr field point and see if it remedys anything.

[statedriller]

vtmtnman wrote:

Assuming your hard right slant means nock is to the left and point is to the right,it would appear you're under spined. Are they flying this way to the target?Try shooting in front of a white bag target,you'll see the flight much better.If you strip one down and shoot it bare shaft from say 10-15 yards,you'll be able to easily see what the arrow is doing.It won't take you but one shot to see what the arrow is doing.Nock left being underspined and nock right being overspined. Don't waste your time with paper tuning.Way to many variables there. I say try a 100gr or 75gr field point and see if it remedys anything.

Nock is to the right when in the target. So that indicates I'm overspined? What alums should I shoot out of a 50# longbow?
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[Dmaxshawn]

You have to shave tip weight your too stiff. Try tuning before buying new arras. Drop tip or point weight 25 grains at a time. I know we all want a loaded front end and you may have to get different arras to keep em heavy up front.

Shawn
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PICK A SPOT

06 Switchy XT 28.5 @ 68lbs. Stabled til needed.
Kempf mesquite riser boo limbs 60lbs @ 28"
Sarrels Ridgecatt 60" 53lbs @ 28"
whatever bow I feel like building!!!

Going home in 5 years to The Republic Of Texas

[vermonster13]

Are you right or left handed shot?

Is the bow cut to, before or past center?

Your draw length?

Bare shafting is the best way to tune for Trad Bows. To many inconsistencies in most folks releases for true paper tuning.

Assuming you are right handed.

Arrows impact left of center = too stiff (add point weight or use a longer arrow)

Arrows impact right of center = to weak(decrease point weight or shorten arrow)

Fletched arrows nock pointing right indicates stiff arrow, left of course is weak. But you need a very consistent release and target to be sure it isn't a form error. Arrow placement is easier to read.

[thunderchicken21]

Dmaxshawn wrote:

You have to shave tip weight your too stiff. Try tuning before buying new arras. Drop tip or point weight 25 grains at a time. I know we all want a loaded front end and you may have to get different arras to keep em heavy up front. Shawn

I thought you had to increase point weight for a stiff arrow...
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[vtmtnman]

statedriller wrote:

vtmtnman wrote: Assuming your hard right slant means nock is to the left and point is to the right,it would appear you're under spined. Are they flying this way to the target?Try shooting in front of a white bag target,you'll see the flight much better.If you strip one down and shoot it bare shaft from say 10-15 yards,you'll be able to easily see what the arrow is doing.It won't take you but one shot to see what the arrow is doing.Nock left being underspined and nock right being overspined. Don't waste your time with paper tuning.Way to many variables there. I say try a 100gr or 75gr field point and see if it remedys anything. Nock is to the right when in the target. So that indicates I'm overspined? What alums should I shoot out of a 50# longbow?

Larry,I've found from trying to tune that watching arrow flight is a better way to figure out tuning issues rather than going off target impact.You never know what is inside the target,thus you don't know which way the arrow may penetrate in a target.

A white bag target that will allow you to see flight of the arrow is the best way to watch.

Shawn and Dave are right,you're too stiff.Answer Dave's questions and we can get you fixed up.

Also going off what Dave said,you have to have consistent form and release to be able to tune well too.I had alot of issues with tuning until I got my form and release down.You can get alot of variables if you're in consistent.

[statedriller]

vermonster13 wrote:

Are you right or left handed shot? Right handed Is the bow cut to, before or past center? I think...before Your draw length? 27.5" Bare shafting is the best way to tune for Trad Bows. To many inconsistencies in most folks releases for true paper tuning. Assuming you are right handed. Arrows impact left of center = too stiff (add point weight or use a longer arrow) Arrows impact right of center = to weak(decrease point weight or shorten arrow) Fletched arrows nock pointing right indicates stiff arrow, left of course is weak. But you need a very consistent release and target to be sure it isn't a form error. Arrow placement is easier to read.

I'm not sure about form error....That would be a good possibility since I have no formal training. All arrows show the same amount of angling out of my block target. I do have a tendency to hit left a lot. I thought it was due to my crosseye dominance. I will try some bare shafts and see how they look. That is once somebody tells me what I should look for. I do have a large white bag target to shoot at. Thanks for the help guys....especially you Brett....
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[vermonster13]

Everything you need to know about bare-shaft tuning can be found here.

http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm

[vtmtnman]

statedriller wrote:

vermonster13 wrote: Are you right or left handed shot? Right handed Is the bow cut to, before or past center? I think...before Your draw length? 27.5" Bare shafting is the best way to tune for Trad Bows. To many inconsistencies in most folks releases for true paper tuning. Assuming you are right handed. Arrows impact left of center = too stiff (add point weight or use a longer arrow) Arrows impact right of center = to weak(decrease point weight or shorten arrow) Fletched arrows nock pointing right indicates stiff arrow, left of course is weak. But you need a very consistent release and target to be sure it isn't a form error. Arrow placement is easier to read. I'm not sure about form error....That would be a good possibility since I have no formal training. All arrows show the same amount of angling out of my block target. I do have a tendency to hit left a lot. I thought it was due to my crosseye dominance. I will try some bare shafts and see how they look. That is once somebody tells me what I should look for. I do have a large white bag target to shoot at. Thanks for the help guys....especially you Brett....

That right there is an indicator of overspine.They will usually hit 6" or more inches to where you're looking when they WAYYY out of spine (Be it over or under).If they're close but still off(Weak or stiff ) the tell tale is in the flight,as they will usually hit where you aim.

[Dmaxshawn]

vtmtnman wrote:

statedriller wrote: vermonster13 wrote: Are you right or left handed shot? Right handed Is the bow cut to, before or past center? I think...before Your draw length? 27.5" Bare shafting is the best way to tune for Trad Bows. To many inconsistencies in most folks releases for true paper tuning. Assuming you are right handed. Arrows impact left of center = too stiff (add point weight or use a longer arrow) Arrows impact right of center = to weak(decrease point weight or shorten arrow) Fletched arrows nock pointing right indicates stiff arrow, left of course is weak. But you need a very consistent release and target to be sure it isn't a form error. Arrow placement is easier to read. I'm not sure about form error....That would be a good possibility since I have no formal training. All arrows show the same amount of angling out of my block target. I do have a tendency to hit left a lot. I thought it was due to my crosseye dominance. I will try some bare shafts and see how they look. That is once somebody tells me what I should look for. I do have a large white bag target to shoot at. Thanks for the help guys....especially you Brett.... That right there is an indicator of overspine.They will usually hit 6" or more inches to where you're looking when they WAYYY out of spine (Be it over or under).If they're close but still off(Weak or stiff ) the tell tale is in the flight,as they will usually hit where you aim.

Ah Hitting left I used to have that problem until I filmed myself. Then it was all cleared up. A release in a way in which the archer pulls away from his cheek (to the right) even the slightest bit will cause the arrow to go left.

Film yourself and watch your release make sure your anchor stays anchored. If that doesnt fix the problem then shave tip weight until it straightens up.
_________________
PICK A SPOT

06 Switchy XT 28.5 @ 68lbs. Stabled til needed.
Kempf mesquite riser boo limbs 60lbs @ 28"
Sarrels Ridgecatt 60" 53lbs @ 28"
whatever bow I feel like building!!!

Going home in 5 years to The Republic Of Texas

[vermonster13]

If they keep hitting left, you need to add tip weight not reduce.

[statedriller]

vermonster13 wrote:

If they keep hitting left, you need to add tip weight not reduce.

Thank you. I'll give that a try, but according to the link you gave, I'm way, way overspined on the chart. I know that is just a guide, but it looks like I need some weaker arrows. I have some 1816's but they have erratic flight out of this bow. I'll play with the weight and go from there.

Thank you guys....
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[thunderchicken21]

statedriller wrote:

vermonster13 wrote: Are you right or left handed shot? Right handed Is the bow cut to, before or past center? I think...before Your draw length? 27.5" Bare shafting is the best way to tune for Trad Bows. To many inconsistencies in most folks releases for true paper tuning. Assuming you are right handed. Arrows impact left of center = too stiff (add point weight or use a longer arrow) Arrows impact right of center = to weak(decrease point weight or shorten arrow) Fletched arrows nock pointing right indicates stiff arrow, left of course is weak. But you need a very consistent release and target to be sure it isn't a form error. Arrow placement is easier to read. I'm not sure about form error....That would be a good possibility since I have no formal training. All arrows show the same amount of angling out of my block target. I do have a tendency to hit left a lot. I thought it was due to my crosseye dominance. I will try some bare shafts and see how they look. That is once somebody tells me what I should look for. I do have a large white bag target to shoot at. Thanks for the help guys....especially you Brett....

You are welcome buddy




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