Making lighted nocks, with pics.

[gutpileguru]

I use either Thill bobber lights, or Lucky Jack lights from Rod-n-Bobbs that push on.
http://www.rod-n-bobbs.com/index.php?page=prodList&by=type&by_id=BatteryLights































Push the nock back in, leaving a gap of 1/4" or less, just until the light is about to come on.







These are super quick and easy to build, and much cheaper than commercial ones. I would look for the plastic spacer to be more consistant with the weight. Have fun!
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[Hydrapress]

very interesting!
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[1SWAMPTHING]

Out of curiosity have you weighed an arrow before and after the nock installation to see what the actual weight of the nock, glue, dowel and light is?

[GBBL GBL]

1SWAMPTHING wrote:

Out of curiosity have you weighed an arrow before and after the nock installation to see what the actual weight of the nock, glue, dowel and light is?

I was going to ask the same thing.....

[dbriner]

What kind of nocks are those in the picture? Will this fit inside a Gold Tip nock? If the answer is yes I'm gonna buy some of these right away!!

Great stuff man!
Dave

[tonyparson]

thanks i will try it out

[Rakkasan]

So you leave the gap to keep the light off..and when you shoot it it pushes the nock in further "closing the gap" and lights the nock that way?
If so would/could that mess with flight coming off the string?

[gutpileguru]

Rakkasan wrote:

So you leave the gap to keep the light off..and when you shoot it it pushes the nock in further "closing the gap" and lights the nock that way? If so would/could that mess with flight coming off the string?

It doesn't mess with anything, they light the same way commercial ones do.
1Sswampthing &GBBL_GBL
No, I haven't weighed any of the components, but shoot with the dowels in year round, even at spots and 3-d, and put the lights in a few times before season and it doesn't change my P.O.I. The only trouble you might run into is if you are on the line with your spine being too stiff, as adding weight to the rear will stiffen the arrow some.
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[gutpileguru]

dbriner wrote:

What kind of nocks are those in the picture? Will this fit inside a Gold Tip nock? If the answer is yes I'm gonna buy some of these right away!! Great stuff man! Dave

Gold tip nocks in the pics (translucent ones).
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[Sticker]

I make these also and they work great. The only thing is I hjave a heck of a time finding the lights that push on. It seems most of the stores in my area carry the twist type.

Good post.
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[BaMaBoWHuNTeR]

This would make a good sticky, in the sticky section



Nice work gutpileguru...

[bowtie1201]

i pulled up the link...they don't say which ones are push on...can you give the item number so i can get the right one
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[gutpileguru]

bowtie1201 wrote:

i pulled up the link...they don't say which ones are push on...can you give the item number so i can get the right one

The Rod-N-Bobbs I'm pretty sure all push on, its when you get the Thill that they have the twist on type.
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[bowtie1201]

gutpileguru wrote:

bowtie1201 wrote: i pulled up the link...they don't say which ones are push on...can you give the item number so i can get the right one The Rod-N-Bobbs I'm pretty sure all push on, its when you get the Thill that they have the twist on type.

thanks
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09 hoyt pro 38 all black

[RickyM]

Thanks.
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[Nippers]

I've made a couple of them too, but with the Axis shafts, the lights don't fit well into the nock. I ended up putting a dab of glue at the end of the nock where it meets the light then pushed it into the shaft. Also the I.D of the Axis shaft is different so I had to play with the correct dowel size to get it to work right. If I remember correctly, I had to wrap the dowel with some tape to get it to the snug fit then pushed it in and added the glue. I think I got the dowel wet and used just a couple of spots of Polyurethane on the dowel. Placed in the shaft with a toothpick. But the superglue would be a lot easier to use.

Thanks for the tip (and my shafts that I made have the same POI that my non-lighted ones have)
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[Monofletch]

I do the same thing, but just turn the light on and stick the nock in the shaft. The light will last SEVERAL outings.

[billsid29]

In place of the dowel you can take an old nock and cut a 1/4" of the throat and use some 2part epoxy stick the light in the epoxy and you have a solid setup. The old nock is the perfect dia. the only thing is you may have to lightly sand around it to get it to slide in the arrow more easily.

[Sticker]

gutpileguru wrote:

bowtie1201 wrote: i pulled up the link...they don't say which ones are push on...can you give the item number so i can get the right one The Rod-N-Bobbs I'm pretty sure all push on, its when you get the Thill that they have the twist on type.

The Rod-n-Bobbs come in push and twist types so be careful to get the correct one.
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[gutpileguru]

Sticker wrote:

gutpileguru wrote: bowtie1201 wrote: i pulled up the link...they don't say which ones are push on...can you give the item number so i can get the right one The Rod-N-Bobbs I'm pretty sure all push on, its when you get the Thill that they have the twist on type. The Rod-n-Bobbs come in push and twist types so be careful to get the correct one.

These should be the right ones, then. Thanks for the heads up
Lucky Jack Battery Refills - Red
LJ-7055-R3

http://www.rod-n-bobbs.com/index.php?page=prodView&pid=116
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[808XT]

I do the same thing as Jason when building my lighted nocks. The only difference is that I made a small jig to hold the dowel when cutting it so that I get a uniform length. The plastic spacer idea is one I didn't think of but will probably try out soon.

I recall Nippers posting, awhile ago, about a substitute battery/light made for darts. If I'm not mistaken, they were about $2.50 each. I have the link somewhere, now if I can only find it
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[vapor_33]

Thats really cool, I might just have to give it a go one of these days...
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[bowhunter1347]

sticky
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[wihill]

STICKY!

I also found that the Thill brand bobber lights work just as well (and can be found locally at Farm & Fleet)
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[bowhunter1347]

alright, I got Ricky to make a sticky for us
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